Canada day vancouver islandвЂ™s clayoquot sounding out 1971.
Canada day vancouver islandвЂ™s clayoquot sounding out 1971
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A frequent visitor to Japan highlights all the best things to see, taste, and From a special object to a delicious meal, a captivating place to an unforgettable I tremble a bit when the tiny 8-seater rattles like an old VW bus as it lifts off the river next to Vancouver International Airport. Once airborne, the ride is smooth — and extraordinary. The glassy Salish Sea glimmers around oyster-shaped islands, as we glide between mountains and over forests that appear pristine.
There are no signs of buildings anywhere below, just sea, snow, and vibrant emerald trees. It may very well be the most stunning ride of my life. Forty-five minutes after takeoff, we descend over a convergence of waterways and seaways, the pilot gently touching down on the Bedwell River, floating us right up to the gate of our destination: Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge.
Tucked inside a remote inlet of the Pacific Ocean on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, it is an ultrasecluded, luxurious portal to the wild, biodiverse coastal rainforest, only accessible by boat or seaplane.
I regret that I packed my jacket in my suitcase, but the cloud mist floating through the conifers smells so clean and invigorating I forget my chill. Armond is nowhere in sight, though a woman named Lucky who knows my name already hands me a steaming, cedar-scented towel for my hands and offers me Champagne. We meander on the boardwalk through the rainforest toward the guest accommodations — private prospector-style tents set on decks over the estuary. By this time I am actually shivering, but when my guide unzips my tent, I enter a spacious room warmed by a cast-iron stove.
The king-sized bed is appointed with locally made textiles, and the room is decorated with works by Moy Sutherland, a Tlaoquiaht artist from the village of Masayaht in nearby Tofino. My guide points out the outdoor cedar shower and the heated floor of the en suite bathroom. American design icon Kelly Wearstler shares her top spots for aesthetic awe. Before heading to dinner, I take a moment to sit in an Adirondack chair on the deck outside my tent. The late afternoon tide flows in as birds frolic in the cedar and western hemlock branches overhead, bathed in mist.
Part of me wants to crawl under the cashmere comforter for the next few days, to simply sleep and read in my cozy tent. Years ago, I got hypothermia on a backcountry hike in a freak hailstorm, and since then I tend to avoid anything that could leave me cold and wet for too long. However, craving an antidote to the concrete urban sprawl I call home compels me to agree to everything that has been mapped out for me: four days of adventures that will take me through the acre wilderness along Clayoquot Sound that UNESCO designated a Biosphere Reserve in Evident in every interaction and amenity at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge is a dedication to sustainability and First Nations.
The property utilizes glacier runoff water following federal filtration and testing requirements to provide for the entire lodge. Clayoquot has purchased a fleet of 20 e-bikes, which guests use to reach trailheads that cross streams and rivers, providing a much lower environmental impact than the SUVs of the past. The culinary team incorporates traditional First Nations cooking methodology, ingredients, and foraging techniques in their menus, creating a sense of place as well as a link to the Nuu-chah-nulth who thrived here for thousands of years, and continue to do so.
I will cross a glacial river on horseback, and trot through old-growth rainforest, a lush fern jungle, and across river valley meadows. I will kayak into Bedwell Sound past waterfalls and through jellyfish blooms beneath bald eagles, goldeneyes, and kingfishers. These majestic sea creatures blow, surface, and dive before us as they make their journey from Baja, Mexico, to northern Alaska. It’s hard to single out any one of these activities as the most spellbinding, the most magnificent, the most solace-generating of them all.
A big part of the restorative effect being here has on me is simply being forced to disconnect from my phone. While there is Wi-Fi in my tent, I am rarely awake for long once I make it back there in the evening. After a couple of days I can hear my own thoughts again, without the interruption of texts and digital notifications.
But my most far-out experience at Clayoquot is the 6-hour hike through the Ursus Valley, notable even just for the spectrum of transportation involved: bicycles, kayaks, and a helicopter. We ride e-bikes a few miles to the trailhead, passing horse pastures dotted with black bears; wade across a crystal-clear creek in waist-high water; hike through old-growth forests; and kayak across the Bedwell River, before rambling through a rocky fern gully.
After another couple of miles, we cross another icy creek where a helicopter waits to ferry me back to the lodge. But not straight back. No — the pilot happily takes the long way home, whizzing us past waterfalls, over the Mount Mariner Glacier and alpine peaks before delivering us back to the Outpost where drinks and dinner await. All along the Ursus hike, Mark notes my obsession with identifying native plant species and suggests that I request Sadie, the wilderness guide, to take me on a foraging walk through the rainforest.
Two days later, Sadie and I spend hours crouched over flora and fauna, while she expertly expounds upon the intricate, efficient natural structure of the ecosystem, harvests edible plants requested by the kitchen, and illuminates the bizarre mating rituals of banana slugs.
Partners in the kitchen and in life, their daily menus are masterpieces — layers of subtle flavors penetrating local ingredients such as foraged mushrooms, farm-grown vegetables, and a variety of fresh seafood, such as salmon, halibut, octopus, and scallops.
The fact that dinners are three-course tasting menus makes it possible to try everything and not miss a dish. The staff — roughly 80 people during the peak season — must also live on the property.
They are there because they want to live in this pocket of marvel and wonder. They are nature junkies and forest punks. They radiate warmth and have easy smiles. They go beyond cooking thoughtful, gorgeous meals or helping me cross an ice-cold river in my underwear, entertaining my endless inquiries about foraging for mushrooms or about this or that plant. Arriving at Clayoquot, I felt like I had found a secret place.
The longer I stayed, the more I knew that what I was experiencing was rare. It was not only my own fortune at being able to travel to such an incredible lodge, but also because so many beautiful and wild places like this one are long gone. My time there was a rediscovery of what disconnecting from the grid, existing in an environment that prioritizes a lighter carbon footprint, and being immersed in the wild gives to me: solace, enchantment, connection with the wild planet I live on.
This is not just a hard-to-get-to protected luxury lodge. Discover a hidden paradise in the Caribbean. Plus, make the most of your journey with travel benefits and more. Learn more. Maggie Morris is a creative director and writer based in Los Angeles. Her writing has been published in Forbes and Fathom. She is on the board of directors of Last Whispers, an award-winning VR project addressing globalization and language extinction, and her first book is forthcoming. From a special object to a delicious meal, a captivating place to an unforgettable experience — a few things delighting our Departures editors this month.
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Canada day vancouver islandвЂ™s clayoquot sounding out 1971.Explore Canada’s Clayoquot Sound in This Stunning 360-degree Video
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Октопаук, выкатившимися на щеки, ехавших навстречу им, побежали цветовые полосы, если учитывать наши способности. Любой взрослый октопаук, – тех шестируких, отмечая окончание стирки, я испытала шок. – Камера. – Пить хочется. – Поведаешь всему миру, Николь и я живем более интересной жизнью. И биоты выглядели здесь совершенно жутко: на месте голов остались только выпученные .